The center of Orlando shows what the town as a whole was like before it became a big theme park. Quiet streets are lined with huge oaks covered with Spanish moss. Museums and galleries are along main thoroughfares, as are dozens of tiny lakes, where herons, egrets, and, yes, alligators, peacefully coexist with human city dwellers. This is quintessential urban Florida. The restaurants in this area, a good half hour from the Disney tourism area via Interstate 4, tend to have more of their own sense of character and style than the eateries going full tilt for your dollars in Kissimmee and Lake Buena Vista or on International Drive.