The metro stops at Plaça de Catalunya and Provença nicely bracket this quintessential Barcelona neighborhood; the Diagonal and Passeig de Gràcia stations are right in the center.
Barcelona’s unnumbered Eixample (Expansion), the post-1860 grid, is a perfect place to get lost, but fear not: the Eixample is vertebrate. Carrer Balmes divides the working-class Esquerra (left, looking uphill) from its bourgeois Dreta (right). Even the blocks are divided by flats davant (front) or darrera (behind). The sides of the streets are either mar (seaward) or muntanya (facing the mountain).