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Negotiating the twisting and turning alleys deep in the medina is a voyage in itself. If you don't hire a guide, keep a guidebook or at least a map with you at all times; comfortable, flat shoes and a sense of humor will also help. The medina, although not quite as enclosed and intense as the one in Fez, takes some patience—street names are often signposted only in Arabic, if at all. A small street is called a rue in French or a zencat in Arabic; an even smaller alley is called a derb. Guéliz, in comparison, is easy to navigate. The wide streets are signposted in French and lined with orange and jacaranda trees, office buildings, modern stores, and a plethora of sidewalk cafés.