High heat and high season hit in July and August with a wallop: this lovely region is anything but undiscovered, thanks in part to Peter Mayle’s revelations (he took a break from Provence to avoid the crowds he inspired, then relocated to the quieter south face of the Luberon). June and September are still intense, but better.

Low season falls between mid-November and mid-March, when many restaurants and hotels take two or three months off. That leaves spring and fall: if you arrive after Easter, the flowers are in full bloom, the air cool, and the sun warm, and you’ll still be able to book a table on the terrace. The same goes for October and early November, when the hills of the Luberon turn rust and gold, and game and wild mushrooms figure on every menu.