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It’s said that Buenos Aires was built with its back to the Río de la Plata, but the exception is the riverside strip of Costanera Norte, where a promenade borders the choppy brown waters. By day, the drone of engines and the smell of jet fuel fill the air above this strip of land along the river: Aeroparque Jorge Newbery, the hub for domestic flights, is here. Wishful fishermen often cast a line from the wide waterfront promenade, but a steak or chorizo sandwich from the many carritos (food stands) is a surer meal ticket. At night, the soundtrack is pounding beats and guitar riffs coming from long-standing dance clubs. Respectful silence reigns a little farther north at the haunting Parque de la Memoria, a monument to victims of Argentina’s last dictatorship.