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Once rural villages far removed from urban life, Belgrano and neighboring Núñez now mark the transition from the city proper to the sprawling northern suburbs of Greater Buenos Aires. The stolid storefronts and safe menus of Belgrano’s clothing stores and restaurants cater to its well-to-do but conservative residents. They’re the reason that the R ío de la Plata soccer fans are known as millonarios (millionaires); adjacent Núñez is home to the club’s huge stadium, La Monumental. Away from the crazy traffic of Avenida Cabildo, Belgrano’s tree-lined streets are pleasant, if lacking in tourist attractions.