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Dublin, Ireland

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Ha'penny Bridge

Ha'penny Bridge

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Temple Bar District

Temple Bar District

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St. Patrick's Cathedral

St. Patrick's Cathedral

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Dublin is making a comeback. The decade-long "Celtic Tiger" boom era was quickly followed by the Great Recession, but we’re finally seeing the green shoots of The Recovery. For visitors, this newer and wiser Dublin has become one of Western Europe's most popular and delightful urban destinations. Whether or not you're out to enjoy the old or new Dublin, you'll find it a colossally entertaining city, all the more astonishing considering its intimate size.It is ironic and telling that James Joyce chose Dublin as the setting for his famous Ulysses, Dubliners, and A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man because it was a "center of paralysis" where nothing much ever changed. Which only proves that even the greats get it wrong sometimes. Indeed, if Joyce were to return to his once-genteel hometown today—disappointed with the city's provincial outlook, he left it in 1902 at the age of 20—and take a quasi-Homeric odyssey through the city (as he so famously does in Ulysses), would he even recognize Dublin as his "Dear Dirty Dumpling, foostherfather of fingalls and dotthergills"?For instance, what would he make of Temple Bar—the city's erstwhile down-at-the-heels neighborhood, now crammed with cafés and trendy hotels and suffused with a nonstop, international-party atmosphere? Or the simple sophistication of the open-air restaurants of the tiny Italian Quarter (named Quartier Bloom after his own creation), complete with sultry tango lessons? Or of the hot–cool Irishness, where every aspect of Celtic culture results in sold-out theaters, from Once, the cult indie movie and Broadway hit, to Riverdance, the old Irish mass-jig recast as a Las Vegas extravaganza? Plus, the resurrected Joyce might be stirred by the songs of U2, fired up by the sultry acting of Michael Fassbender, and moved by the award-winning novels of Colum McCann. As for Ireland's capital, it's packed with elegant shops and hotels, theaters, galleries, coffeehouses, and a stunning variety of new, creative little restaurants can be found on almost every street in Dublin, transforming the provincial city that suffocated Joyce into a place almost as cosmopolitan as the Paris to which he fled. And the locals are a hell of a lot more fun!Now that the economic downturn seems to be slowly coming to an end, Dublin citizens can cast a cool eye over the last 20 crazy years. Some argue that the boomtown transformation of their heretofore-tranquil city has permanently affected its spirit and character. These skeptics (skepticism long being a favorite pastime in the capital city) await the outcome of "Dublin: The Sequel," and their greatest fear is the possibility that the tattered old lady on the Liffey has become a little less unique, a little more like everywhere else.Oh ye of little faith: the rare ole gem that is Dublin is far from buried. The fundamentals—the Georgian elegance of Merrion Square, the Norman drama of Christ Church Cathedral, the foamy pint at an atmospheric pub—are still on hand to gratify. Most of all, there are the locals themselves: the nod and grin when you catch their eye on the street, the eagerness to hear half your life story before they tell you all of theirs, and their paradoxically dark but warm sense of humor.

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Things You Can't Miss

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Pint With a View
Pint With a View

Seven-story Guinness Storehouse is Dublin’s top tourist attraction. Learn how the brew is made and sip a free sample at a bar with a 360-degree view.

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Getty Images

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A Hotel That Rocks
A Hotel That Rocks

U2’s Bono and The Edge invested in The Clarence, where regulars order fine whiskey at the buzzy Octagon or cozier Back Bar.

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Tim Cuff/Alamy

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Pluck of the Irish
Pluck of the Irish

Once used to repel invaders, 13th-century Dublin Castle now hosts officials. But you can tour its grand state apartments, chapel, library and grounds.

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Felipe Rodriguez/Alamy

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How to Be a Good Tourist 101

6 tips on how to get the most from your trip abroad.

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Getty Images

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Historic and Happening
Historic and Happening

Clubs, pubs, eateries, shops and artsy venues line cobblestone streets in the Temple Bar district. On weekends find popular book and craft markets.

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Alamy

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8 Romantic Getaways for Couples

Cozy, intimate and fun vacation spots for you and your valentine.

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Buff Strickland

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James Joyce’s Dublin
James Joyce’s Dublin

For more than 200 years, writers and locals have bellied up to the scarred wooden bar at Kehoe’s, which retains the feel of a traditional Irish pub.

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Kevin Foy/Alamy

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How to Avoid Getting Hacked While Traveling

Find out some basic rules and suggestions for internet security and cyber security that will help keep you safe while traveling.

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Brian Jackson / Alamy

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